At the start of today, I expected an easy day. Farmers market in the morning, then relaxing in this little medieval town, perhaps with a stroll around the lake.
But when I’m with my family, things happen!
My mother – who was up until 4am last night – walked for ten miles around Paris today. “Because today is so nice and tomorrow will be cold and rainy”.
We sped through the annual scallop festival; sauntered winding streets in the outdoor flea market, strutted down the jardin des tuileries, and basked under the calmest place I’ve found in France (a particular library room near the Louvre).
We ate four of my favorite French foods: tomme de brebis, galette, a particular raclette wrap, and carbonara at the best Italian restaurant in Paris. (You may think carbonara is Italian. But if in France, doesn’t that make it French?)
Le jeu changed over time. From find caffeine to find food to find the most outrageous item being sold to people-watch to make the train.
(We made the train home, despite it leaving in 20 minutes and Google telling us the walk would take 22 minutes.)
Back in Étampes, the land of the Clown School. My mother and I are visiting for ~5 days.
My mother asked me what it’s like to be back.
My answer, in anecdotes:
At the airport, waiting for the bus, my mother and I talked about our travels to France: hers through Portugal, mine from Spain. Perhaps its the German genes we share, but both of us have trouble with those local cultures of queueing.
When the corner baker popped up from behind the counter and saw me, her eyes widened and her cheeks shined. “I thought you were gone,” she said. I told her about my broken foot and leaving for the holiday. She told me, “Before you leave, you must tell me!”
My mother asked, “What should we get in our croissant?”. I replied, “Oh you silly Americans. We are going to the best croissant in the whole town. We will eat it as it is.” And we did. And it was good.
“I’m glad I’m wearing my boots, because this is muddy!” (I don’t own boots.)
The two cheeses in the fridge, untouched for 1.5 months, had me wary. One ages for 24 months before it gets to me; the other spends its adolescence stewing in musty caves, which are selected because they harbor fungicidal mold. Perhaps it’s no surprise they’re both not only edible but delicious.
The outer crunch of the baguette; the smear of blue cheese; the dollup of black truffle pâté; the slice of iberian ham. If I lived here, this would be my every day. When I lived here, this was my every day.
Three — now four — times, my mother and I have said “It’s so great to be with you.”
In which Our Hero has a ball by losing part of one.*
The second thing I told my partner after emerging from surgery: “That was fun. Can I get paid to do that?” (I guess it’s somewhat like the premise of the TV show Severance.)
I *really* like being unconscious. And awakening from anasthesia is exceedingly pleasant.
This might not be everyone’s experience of surgery, but for mine:
Before going in, I made a wager with my partner. She set the over-under line for duration at 26 minutes (from Julian leaves room to Julian re-enters room). I took the under.
As the doctors faffed around me in the operating room, the last thing I thought was “Eugh, I didn’t factor in this time”.
Okay, the real last thing I thought was, “Huh, in the States the anesthesiologist tells you to count down as they knock you out. This guy is just waving “buh bye” at me.”
After surgery, the first thing I did was tell a joke.
It’s my favorite bilingual Spanish joke.
The doctors didn’t appreciate it.
Perhaps I told it poorly.
Perhaps they didn’t expect a bilingual joke from the clown who just woke up from surgery.
As I returned to the waiting room, I began to sing.
My partner tells me she knew I was returning because I’m the only person who would possibly sing in this context.
Total duration: 44 minutes.
I even enjoyed losing the bet.
I don’t know that there’s a job that pays like this for doing this. Medical experiments, perhaps, but I’m not sure I’d like to do those…
A professional urologist, he receives testes on Wednesdays and Thursdays.
He begins with a long-winded explanation of two treatment options, each of which contradicts something he said previously. Then he gives vague instructions about how to sit on the bed, and panics when you do it wrong.
Two days ago, I asked if I could see him in the morning. I would already be in the area at 9:30 a.m. I would rather not wait around until 5 p.m. The scheduler said I was lucky to get an appointment at all.
Fuck you, I thought. I’m paying for this. You’re a fertility clinic. You should have a urologist on staff. You’re not doing me a favor: this is your job. (This is my general experience with this clinic.)
Eventually, he slaps cold ultrasound goo on my balls and takes out the wand. He peers at the screen.
They look normal. No shit they do. He seems surprised. Has this man never seen a huevo before?
And then, the best part:
He cleans them.
There is something deeply satisfying about a gruff old man cleaning your testicles with visible irritation. No tenderness. No ceremony. Just the job, done thoroughly and against his will.
A small, immaculate fuck you.
I don’t respect doctors merely because they’re doctors. Many of them I respect less because they are. Authority that demands deference without earning it irritates me.
So when a man who has done nothing but steadily lose my respect cleans my testicles—however gruffly—it brings me joy.
This upcoming Monday is the first day of spring term for clown school.
One student is going into immense debt for tuition. Another student spent their inheritance to be here. This school really must be something.
I won’t be there.
I’m not sure I committed to the school whole hog. I committed with great intensity, sure. But underneath the intensity was an underlying “This isn’t my life. I’m not an actor/performer/clown. I’m here to learn the skills for myself, not for the purpose they’re teaching them.”
This structure meant that some underlying part of me felt misfit. The one course I was most intent on – Bouffon – drew me. The foundational course Le Jeu also attracted. The other courses I cared less for.
Perhaps this disinterest led to a shallower relationship. Pushing myself to achieve rather than it coming from an internal alignment.
If my interests are aligned to my tastes and preferences, Then my disinterest in some areas may not merely be cosmetic But a substantive “go here and not there…”
I’m most drawn to Bouffon for the outcast and grotesque. First as a matter of my relationship to gender. Later as a matter of my relationship to all.
Greek tragedy: not so much. Melodrama, minorly. Vaudeville: sure. Mask play and clown: perhaps not.
I don’t need to take everything or nothing. I needn’t even take all the classes this year (as opposed to some the next). That’s not the sort of whole hog I aim to be.
Since all we ever have is now, perhaps I align that way.
Dipping churros into chocolate, I could feel the blood throbbing in my left knee.
After walking 26,986 steps (13.34 miles) on a mostly-still-broken foot, inside a surgical boot that was actively coming apart, it was time for new shoes.
Most people don’t put hundreds of miles on their surgical boots.
Most people don’t buy a second surgical boot so both feet will be even.
Most people don’t sprint through Dallas/Fort Worth Airport in surgical boots when the announcement says they have three minutes to board, even though their ticket insists they really have eighteen.
I am not most people.
We landed in Madrid at 5:45 a.m. By 6:45 a.m., we were failing to locate our Uber and choosing the subway instead.
Our exit train from Madrid left at 4:45 p.m.
Ten hours in Spain’s capital.
After eight of them, my feet were finished. The boot—kept out of an abundance of caution—was now increasing my risk. Three weeks ago, I’d been cleared to wear normal shoes. I hadn’t. I’d stuck with the boot.
Safety, it turns out, has an expiration date.
I spotted a discount shoe store.
Since I return to France on Friday, I only needed shoes that would last five days.
The clerk showed me a pair of decent-looking sneakers: twenty euros. I tried them on. He only had the left shoe in size 44 and the right shoe in 45. The clerk agrees to a discount, and apologizes he cannot give us a greater one. After all, what shoe store only sells mismatched shoes?
Little does he know, my right foot is the broken one. Mismatched shoes is actually a plus!
I ate a second ham croissant. It rivaled the ones I’ve had in France. (It wasn’t a croissant in the way they make them there. But it was delicious.)
We strolled through Madrid’s central plaza. We passed photos of gored bullfighters and Jimmy Carter.
I learned I could buy an apartment of the same cost and size as my future one in this square. I concluded I’d rather have mine.
Why do people prefer the artsy second city?
Melbourne over Sydney.
Barcelona over Madrid.
In both, I have a strong preference. In both, it’s the business hub.
I prefer places where real people are real. Where life isn’t a reflection or performance of itself. And in Madrid, the live music is more prevalent than in Barcelona.
Ten hours. Too-big, mismatched shoes.
Clown.
[Get the title? Squeaking? Like clown shoes? How they squeak?
Just to the left of my navel, I learn a truth. Not about facts or the world, but about how a topic feels to me I think this is what people mean when they say “follow your heart” or “speak from the heart”. It troubled me for many years — still does — because that place is not my heart. It’s at least five inches below my heart, and two to the outside.
We also advise “trust your gut”. Is the place I found not my heart but my gut? Am I misusing each location for its maximally effective purpose? Follow your heart in love; trust your gut in business?
After casting about for a writing theme a few days ago, a friend suggested I write as the ideal version of me would.
Hemingway says write the most true sentence. Then the next true sentence.
The truth is, I feel scared. Not all of me, but a good 80%. I’m pushing and shoving toward the biggest financial decision of my life. I’ve capped my downside risk at an acceptable amount. I’ve run the numbers by family and friends more risk-averse than me. The answer is go.
Courage is not the absence of fear. It’s action while in the presence of fear. In this case, it’s encircling the fear with my flabby squeezers and hugging it while I jump the two of us jump into an abyss. Most of the time, the bungee cord holds. Take a situation that would otherwise be frightening: if you add safety, it becomes thrilling.
The fear is not me. The fear is not anything. Both it and I are transient (that’s a pun). I see why people turn to religion in times of stress. God is what we call the experience of being healed. There’s something addictively reassuring – especially in our most fearful moments – in believing someone is looking out for you, sending positive outcomes your way.
Let us run then, you and I As the sun surmounts the sky The icy clovers frost with dew Let us dive then: me and you.
I fear nothing, though fear is present. Fear is my friend. I stand atop its shoulders. Together, our future rolls out a carpet to greet us.
In which Our Hero plants a seed so grass may grow.
For the last 7 years, I’ve known my next destination only upon leaving my current one. The farthest ahead of time that I bought a plane ticket was one month, and I ended up changing that flight. More often, I’m choosing the next place less than a week ahead of time.
In many ways, it’s magical:
Carrying everything I need on my back gives me complete self-sufficiency. Like a human turtle.
Traveling light became a necessity. A dear friend has a tattoo that says “Travel light.” A good policy.
I’ve learned to make friends quickly. When lost, I talk to strangers. When found, I do the same.
I’ve shared small moments that mattered: teaching a baby to use an airplane tray table; splitting mangosteen with a man in Laos.
Surprising reconnections: three people I knew in high school, all in northern Thailand. A man I met in Indonesia who later booked a room in my flat at clown school.
Humans are the same everywhere. Then again, culture is real.
In others, it’s tough:
Feeling unrooted. I’ve sacrificed depth for breadth. (Depth within breadth is its own type of depth. But it only goes so far.)
Insufficient community. The people you see every day or week are the people you build strong bonds with.
Lack of habit. I used to be a habitual person. Moving into a van really changes things. Selling the van without a new place to live changes things even more. It’s hard to eat your normal daily breakfast when the monastery you’re visiting fasts until noon.
Today I received the final document for my apartment purchase. I’d like to live there for a long time. I’d enjoy tacking my kids’ heights on the doorjamb until they eventually leave to find their own Laotian mangosteen.
The deal isn’t done yet, and then there’s still renovations, so I’m hesitant to get too excited.
“I think you’re done with this theme. I think sometimes you have good things to say about games and clowns. But I think you’re too forced into a narrow hole.” –My partner, regarding my blog.
It’s nice to have people tell you things you already suspected but hadn’t fully admitted to yourself.
I’m not at clown school and haven’t been at clown school for 53 days.
I’m not going to the next available clown course.
My time and mind and attention are focused elsewhere.
This is the state of the world of the JuJu.
So what?
I think I open up the subject matter of the blog. That sounds funny.
Or, as my partner likes to say, “Julian plans and Julian laughs.”
🤡
———-
For those of you curious, here was my daily blog before she made that comment:
Is Jumanji a game?
IN THE YES CATEGORY:
There are players
Players take turns
On their turn, a player rolls dice and moves pieces
Players act in pursuit of winning.
IN THE NO CATEGORY:
It is NOT fun
It is NOT separated from the rest of the world. (In fact, quite the opposite: elements come from the game to attack you in the world itself)
The most crucial parts of the game are not clear from the rules